Encore for a Master : Rutherford Hill’s Products Reflect the Experienced Hand of Jerry Luper

NOW, SOME GOOD news about good wines.

Recently, I sat down to dine with wine master Jerry Luper of Rutherford Hill in the Pavilion Dining Room of the Four Seasons Hotel in Newport Beach.

To California wine aficionados, the Luper name is a hallmark of fine wine making for his celebrated wines made at Freemark Abbey, Chateau Montelena and Chateau Bouchaine. Charles Carpy, principal partner, with Bill Jaeger in both Freemark Abbey and Rutherford Hill, told me, perhaps a year ago, that Luper was returning full time to head up wine making at Rutherford Hill. He would have grapes from about 10 of the Napa Valley’s finest vineyards, including the celebrated Jaeger Vineyards, from which to produce singularly fine wines. Now it was time to taste the results, along with some older wines, which had been aged in the largest man-made wine cave system in America. The caves are mined into the Napa hillsides behind the winery.

Luper’s grasp of wines understands the contemporary marketplace and the divergence of taste trends, simultaneously pursuing lightness and significance in good-tasting depth.

We began with the Rutherford Hill 1986 Chardonnay from the Rutherford Knoll Vineyard ($11): Less oaky, fresh and clean, with selective use of Limousin oak barrels for aging the wine, retaining the Chardonnay essence in temperature-controlled stainless steel.

We moved on to the medal-winning 1986 Chardonnay from the Jaeger Vineyard ($12.50), Luper’s first full-charge wine made at Rutherford Hill. His signature is in the wine’s balance and elegance. And it confirms his statement: “I like to make Chardonnays that last 10 years.” Fifteen percent of it was fermented in new barrels.

Next, we moved to Luper’s even more stylish 1986 and 1987 Cellar Reserve Chardonnays ($18), neither with any malolactic fermentation but aged on the lees after barrel fermentation. From mature, fully ripe clusters of grapes, the toasty tastes have overtones of melons and peaches.

En route to the Cabernets, we tasted the 1985 Merlot ($12), a varietal with which Rutherford Hill has been glowingly associated ever since Jaeger fell in love with the grape after his visit to the Pomerol and St. Emilion regions of Bordeaux. Here’s easy enjoyment of claret in the lighter style.

From Rutherford Hill’s Library Reserve, which sets apart special vintages, comes the 1980 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($18), some of which may still be available in the marketplace. The Cabernet is a graceful reminder of what years bring to the aging of a fine wine. This splendid California ruby should go remarkably well with the Thanksgiving bird.

Vintage 1984 was a highly acclaimed harvest in the Napa Valley. And the 1984 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($12) from Rutherford Hill is a bargain to buy, a treasure to keep. From three prime vineyards, it’s 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, and it’s been aged in Nevers oak for 24 months. We took our time enjoying it as a quintessential Napa Valley Cabernet.

Rutherford Hill, with Luper at the wine-making helm, brackets the broad perimeters of current tastes with style and finesse.