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Sack the Meat

SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Mandel's latest book is "Celebrating the Midwestern Table" (Doubleday & Co., 1996)

Not all chili, even chili eaten on Super Bowl Sunday, needs to have meat. This chunky vegetable chili is a lively mix of squash, corn and peas. With it, serve this moist corn bread, which has a nice crumb but isn’t as crumbly as most. For dessert, you can set out a bowl of pears and Clementines or a dish of maple pecan caramel crisps. All are easy to serve, eat and clean up.

What else do you need? Chilled beer and cider, crudites (easy enough with packaged and salad bar vegetables) or chips with your favorite salsa. To garnish the chili: bowls of shredded cheese, sliced green onions and sour cream. Easy.

CHUNKY VEGETABLE CHILI

I would be reluctant to make any substitutions in this chili, but carrots and mushrooms would work if squash and zucchini aren’t for you. The coarsely chopped kidney beans give substance to the basic chili mixture. As with most chili, this is best made at least a day ahead so the flavors have a chance to develop fully.

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1 tablespoon oil

1 large onion, minced, about 3 cups

1 small jalapen~o, seeded and minced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, pureed with liquid

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

2 (14-1/2-ounce) cans vegetable broth

2 (15-ounce cans) kidney beans, rinsed, drained, 1 can roughly chopped

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch dice, about 3 cups

2 zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch dice, about 2 cups

1 cup frozen corn kernels

1 cup frozen peas

Salt

Optional garnishes: shredded Cheddar cheese, thinly sliced green onions, light sour cream, cilantro leaves

Heat oil in 4-quart non-aluminum pot over medium-high heat. Add onion, jalapen~o and garlic. Cook until onion is softened, about 4 minutes, stirring often. Add pureed tomatoes, tomato paste, 1 1/2 cans vegetable broth, whole and chopped beans, chili powder, cumin and oregano. Stir well. Bring to a boil, then simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes.

Add butternut squash and zucchini. Simmer, uncovered, until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes, stirring often. Add corn and peas. Cook 2 more minutes. Add salt to taste. Flavor is best if made at least 1 day ahead, up to 3 days, and refrigerated. Gently reheat. Add remaining broth if mixture is too thick. Use water if even more liquid is required for desired consistency. Serve hot. Pass desired garnishes separately.

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Makes 6 to 8 main-course servings.

Each of 8 servings contains about:

242 calories; 1332 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 47 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 4.28 grams fiber.

MOIST CORN BREAD

Because this corn bread is moist, it can be successfully baked a day ahead and reheated at serving time. It’s best served warm with butter.

1/4 cup oil

1/2 cup dark corn syrup

2 eggs

1 1/2 cups low-fat buttermilk

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal plus extra for dusting pan

1 3/4 cups cake flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

Whisk together oil, corn syrup, eggs, buttermilk and sugar in large mixing bowl until well mixed. Add cornmeal. Mix well.

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Sift together cake flour, baking soda and salt and add to cornmeal mixture. Mix well. Let stand 15 minutes. Stir well before transferring to greased shallow 6-cup baking dish or deep-dish pie plate lightly sprinkled with cornmeal.

Bake corn bread on center rack of oven at 375 degrees until browned and toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Do not over-bake. Let cool at least 15 minutes before serving. Can be made 1 day ahead, completely cooled and stored, covered, at room temperature. To serve, reheat, covered, in 300-degree oven until warmed through, about 12 minutes, or in microwave oven on medium power (50%) until warm. Serve warm.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Each of 10 servings contains about:

227 calories; 248 mg sodium; 44 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

MAPLE PECAN CARAMEL CRISPS

These bar cookies--caramel sandwiched between crisp cookie layers--are beyond restraint.

1 egg, separated

3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/2 (1 stick) cup butter, room temperature

1 1/4 cups flour

Pinch salt

1/2 teaspoon maple extract

24 caramels

3 tablespoons water

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Pulse egg yolk, brown sugar, butter, flour, salt and maple extract in mixer or food processor until crumbly.

Reserve 1 cup crumbs and chill until ready to use. Press remaining crumbs on bottom and around sides of 9-inch square pan, spreading evenly (use plastic wrap to press into place). Bake at 350 degrees until browned, about 20 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes.

Melt caramels in water in microwave oven on high power (100%) for 40 seconds. Stir and microwave until completely melted, 20 to 30 seconds more. Alternatively, melt caramels in water in double boiler over boiling water, stirring often. Pour hot melted caramel over baked crust. Gently spread within 1/8 inch of crust edge. Sprinkle reserved crumbs evenly over caramel, then pecans, gently pressing into place, again through plastic.

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Froth egg white with fork. Lightly brush egg white over surface of crisp.

Bake at 350 degrees until browned, about 25 minutes. Cool completely on wire rack. Use sharp knife to cut into 16 squares. (Can be made 3 days ahead and kept at room temperature in an airtight container or frozen as long as 3 months.)

Makes 16 servings.

Each serving contains about:

165 calories; 35 mg sodium; 29 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

* Denby Dinnerware from Bristol Kitchens, So. Pasadena.

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