At Copper Chimney, a 7-month-old northern Indian restaurant in Woodland Hills, diners have a view of the kitchen. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
The restaurant’s Indian-American fusion dishes include Indian chicken salad. Baby greens tossed in a clean, fruity mango dressing and sprinkled with nuts are topped with sliced tandoori chicken. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Dewan Bishts Moradabad biryani is named for his hometown. Gently seasoned basmati is loaded with lean, falling-apart-tender lamb chunks. Festooned over the top like party streamers are deep red strands of raw beet. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Chilly chicken is a punningly named super-spicy combination of lightly battered, deep-fried chunks of white meat and tandoori-toasted bell pepper, ignited by a spicy, glaze-like sauce. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
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Copper Chimney chef Dewan Bisht trained at New Delhis five-star Ashok Hotel. His cooking reflects a disciplined training in northern Indian classics to which he adds his own flourishes, expanding an approach he developed at Nawab in Santa Monica. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)